Replica Valves
Back in 2009 and 2010, I bought valves from a few online websites in UK (ultimateparts, PJME) and Ebay (claimed to be a Germany company). They ranged from S$140-160.
All the abovementioned valves were the same. There are all aluminium CNC-machined.
As you know, aluminium is a soft and malleable material. I initially purchased them for my own use. I have been using 2 valves on both my RS125's (my girlfriend's and my own bike) for over a long period, and found them to be quite durable and they performed flawlessly.
Encouraged by their performance, I decided to order them in a larger quantity, so that more Aprilia riders can buy cheaper valves instead of the costly Rotax originals from WEDA at S$280 each.
From PJME: These valves were claimed to be originals, but they were not. They turned out to be the aluminium CNC-machined valves. I called PJ only to be told these were the valves they were stocking then. I had no choice, I decided to order from Ultimate Parts, who is reputed to stock original Aprilia parts.
Please note that PJME is like the Lim Ah Boy of UK. They sell alot of stuff for a lot of bikes at a very low price. Some are originals, some are OEM, some are totally NOT originals. Some of the cables and parts sold on PJME were marketed and sold as originals, but after I called to complain about their sales ethics, they changed the website so they clearly state if an item is original, or OEM (not original but compatible).
Please note that even though the photograph shows an original Rotax valve, the valves shipped over were the non-original aluminium CNC-machined valves.
From Ultimate Parts: They stock a lot of original parts. In fact, when I was in the UK, I even visited their shop physically. I took a train out to the town they were in and walked into their shop to pick up the items I purchased online. I spoke to the owner.
Now, they too were out of the original valves, so guess what they sold me? You guessed it, the aluminium CNC-machined valves.
I figured since the recession and all, everyone is trying to save a buck or two right? So I decided to purchase from Ebay, since the only cheap valves available are the aluminium valves, might as well get from Ebay, where I found the aluminium valves the cheapest, at $140 each, excluding shipping.
I received a few complaints about the aluminium CNC-machined valves being very soft and prone to breakage. I knew the valves were lighter and softer in material, but personally, I've had no issues with them. I noticed scratches and wear on the valve surface, but despite that I've used the same valves for over 2 years without breakage.
I've visited a few bike shops who see a fair number of Aprilias being serviced there, and from what I gather, the aluminium valve users experience an exceptionally high incidence of breakage. I needed to understand why the valves are breaking prematurely on bikes other than my own. I'm not pointing fingers at any mechanic here but I'm just saying I tune my own bikes and I've got no problems with the valves whatsoever.
It may be due to the valve cable tension, and the material. I do agree that aluminium is too soft to be used in high-stress components, so I specially purchased a brand new original Rotax valve and sent it for metal testing. It turns out that the original Rotax valve is made from a special alloy that gives it strength and lightness, like ceramic. It's very hard, can take a lot of stress, and if you took a screwdriver to it, you won't be able to gouge out a chunk of it like you can with aluminium. The surface of it is coated with a layer of metal hardener, to reinforce its durability.
I sent the original valve to be duplicated in the exact dimensions and metal as the original Rotax. This not only ensures that the new valve has the same strength and properties of the original Rotax valve, but also ensures it is of the same weight.
I am currently testing the new replica valve and after 400km, they are still going strong. Every 100km I've taken them out to check the wear and condition, and they still look good. I may be wrong, but the rate of wear does seem to be slower than the aluminium valves. I am unable to test this result scientifically, which I would prefer, so I don't clean them before putting them back in because I want as much carbon build-up on them as possible. I am trying to break them.
But as both my bikes are pretty well-tuned, I do not foresee any problems with it.
For those of you who are looking for a cheaper alternative to the original Rotax valve, this may be your answer. But I cannot guarantee that they will outperform the original Rotax. Please understand than when I sell you a part, I am putting my reputation on the line. I will not sell to you an item that I feel is defective. I will only sell you products that I feel will benefit you, as I have benefited from using them myself.
I believe in sharing the good stuff, including knowledge, because we all deserve better than how the shops are treating us all.
I will be conducting a DIY in end Feb, those of you interested in taking a look at the valve and its wear, and other upgrades like stainless steel exhausts, please attend.
As always, I will try my best to answer your queries.
What I know, I will share. What I do not know, I will find out more. But what I will never do, is pretend to know everything.
Below are the replica valve and original Rotax. Can you tell the difference?
Knowing that both are of the same material and weight, which one would you use?
All the abovementioned valves were the same. There are all aluminium CNC-machined.
As you know, aluminium is a soft and malleable material. I initially purchased them for my own use. I have been using 2 valves on both my RS125's (my girlfriend's and my own bike) for over a long period, and found them to be quite durable and they performed flawlessly.
Encouraged by their performance, I decided to order them in a larger quantity, so that more Aprilia riders can buy cheaper valves instead of the costly Rotax originals from WEDA at S$280 each.
From PJME: These valves were claimed to be originals, but they were not. They turned out to be the aluminium CNC-machined valves. I called PJ only to be told these were the valves they were stocking then. I had no choice, I decided to order from Ultimate Parts, who is reputed to stock original Aprilia parts.
Please note that PJME is like the Lim Ah Boy of UK. They sell alot of stuff for a lot of bikes at a very low price. Some are originals, some are OEM, some are totally NOT originals. Some of the cables and parts sold on PJME were marketed and sold as originals, but after I called to complain about their sales ethics, they changed the website so they clearly state if an item is original, or OEM (not original but compatible).
Please note that even though the photograph shows an original Rotax valve, the valves shipped over were the non-original aluminium CNC-machined valves.
From Ultimate Parts: They stock a lot of original parts. In fact, when I was in the UK, I even visited their shop physically. I took a train out to the town they were in and walked into their shop to pick up the items I purchased online. I spoke to the owner.
Now, they too were out of the original valves, so guess what they sold me? You guessed it, the aluminium CNC-machined valves.
I figured since the recession and all, everyone is trying to save a buck or two right? So I decided to purchase from Ebay, since the only cheap valves available are the aluminium valves, might as well get from Ebay, where I found the aluminium valves the cheapest, at $140 each, excluding shipping.
I received a few complaints about the aluminium CNC-machined valves being very soft and prone to breakage. I knew the valves were lighter and softer in material, but personally, I've had no issues with them. I noticed scratches and wear on the valve surface, but despite that I've used the same valves for over 2 years without breakage.
I've visited a few bike shops who see a fair number of Aprilias being serviced there, and from what I gather, the aluminium valve users experience an exceptionally high incidence of breakage. I needed to understand why the valves are breaking prematurely on bikes other than my own. I'm not pointing fingers at any mechanic here but I'm just saying I tune my own bikes and I've got no problems with the valves whatsoever.
It may be due to the valve cable tension, and the material. I do agree that aluminium is too soft to be used in high-stress components, so I specially purchased a brand new original Rotax valve and sent it for metal testing. It turns out that the original Rotax valve is made from a special alloy that gives it strength and lightness, like ceramic. It's very hard, can take a lot of stress, and if you took a screwdriver to it, you won't be able to gouge out a chunk of it like you can with aluminium. The surface of it is coated with a layer of metal hardener, to reinforce its durability.
I sent the original valve to be duplicated in the exact dimensions and metal as the original Rotax. This not only ensures that the new valve has the same strength and properties of the original Rotax valve, but also ensures it is of the same weight.
I am currently testing the new replica valve and after 400km, they are still going strong. Every 100km I've taken them out to check the wear and condition, and they still look good. I may be wrong, but the rate of wear does seem to be slower than the aluminium valves. I am unable to test this result scientifically, which I would prefer, so I don't clean them before putting them back in because I want as much carbon build-up on them as possible. I am trying to break them.
But as both my bikes are pretty well-tuned, I do not foresee any problems with it.
For those of you who are looking for a cheaper alternative to the original Rotax valve, this may be your answer. But I cannot guarantee that they will outperform the original Rotax. Please understand than when I sell you a part, I am putting my reputation on the line. I will not sell to you an item that I feel is defective. I will only sell you products that I feel will benefit you, as I have benefited from using them myself.
I believe in sharing the good stuff, including knowledge, because we all deserve better than how the shops are treating us all.
I will be conducting a DIY in end Feb, those of you interested in taking a look at the valve and its wear, and other upgrades like stainless steel exhausts, please attend.
As always, I will try my best to answer your queries.
What I know, I will share. What I do not know, I will find out more. But what I will never do, is pretend to know everything.
Below are the replica valve and original Rotax. Can you tell the difference?
Knowing that both are of the same material and weight, which one would you use?
posted by Unmasked at 1:09 AM
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